In short

On an electric heater, check the breaker and the red reset button on the upper thermostat. On gas, check that the pilot is lit and the gas valve is on. If the tank is leaking, the burner will not stay lit, or water runs lukewarm at best — that is a service call.

First: gas or electric?

Look at the unit. A vent pipe coming off the top and a gas line into the bottom means gas. No vent and a heavier electrical cable or conduit means electric. Tankless units follow the same rule.

Electric heaters — two quick checks

  • The breaker — water heaters are usually on their own double breaker. If it tripped, reset it once. Trips again? An element is failing or wiring has a problem — stop there.
  • The reset button — behind the upper access panel (kill the breaker first) is a red button on the thermostat. One press, wait an hour. It trips when water overheats — and it usually trips for a reason.

Gas heaters — pilot and supply

  • The pilot light — look through the little sight glass at the bottom. No flame, no hot water. The relighting steps are printed right on the tank label.
  • The gas valve — make sure nobody bumped the shutoff on the gas line (happens after other work in the basement).
  • Pilot will not stay lit? — that is usually a thermocouple or gas valve. Cheap part, but it is a service call — do not bypass the safety controls.

Lukewarm counts too

Hot for two minutes then cold? That is sediment in the tank or a dead element — see how long water heaters actually last for the full picture. In Bucks and Montgomery County hard-water areas, sediment is the usual suspect.

Smell gas near the heater?

Leave it alone, get out, call the gas utility first — then call us. And water pooling under the tank is never a wait-and-see: call or text (267) 227-8115.